
         
        
         
        Hubert
        Butler (1900-1991),
        the last late scion of the Irish Literary Revival, is surely one of the
        great essayists in English of the 20th
        century. Only over the last decade and a half, however, have his essays
        been collected and published, in Ireland, first with ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL
        (1985),then
        THE
        CHILDREN OF DRANCY
        (1988), GRANDMOTHER
        AND WOLFE TONE
        (1990),
        and IN
        THE LAND OF NOD
        (1996).
        The original appearance of his writings is confined almost completely to
        Irish periodicals, many of them obscure. For this reason his corpus of a
        hundred or so essays, including magisterial pieces on the Balkans and
        Mitteleuropa, has only recently come before a large readership in the
        English-speaking world, quickly mustering acclaim. Equally astonishing
        is the fact that, despite the historical importance of his writing on
        the Balkans (he spoke fluently what used to be called Serbo-Croat,
        having lived in the region in the mid-thirties), until recently none of
        it had ever appeared in the lands of the former Yugoslavia.
        Not
        only is Butler a superb prose stylist, he is also one of those very rare
        writers, like George Orwell or Alexander Solzhenitsyn or Albert Camus,
        for whom the source of his inspiration is what might be termed the ethical
        imagination. His palette is narrow yet profound: he writes
        out of a compact but interrelated set of preoccupations that over the
        course of his life he elaborated into a unique terrain of historical,
        cultural, religious and philosophical reflection. A true son of the New
        Testament and the classics, of the Reformation and the Enlightenment, he
        writes with a modern dissident sensibility that is profoundly at odds
        with the civilizational grain of our centripetal century. The crux of
        his worldview is a championing of the small-scale over the colossal, the
        parish over “the global village,” the intimate community over the
        mighty enterprises of state-nation-religion, the solitary spirit over
        the metropolitan “centers of culture” — the ant, in short, over
        the anthill. He is, in fact, an “artistic philosopher” of the
        various meshed forms of human relations — local, regional, national,
        continental, global: arguing from the start that our century’s human
        energy and focus must be shifted back to the first two of those
        adjectives, whose vitality sustains the health of the rest.
        Having
        come to maturity when the Russian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires
        disintegrated, and the British world imperium began to unravel in
        Ireland, he was deeply alert to the complex, ambiguous and pan-European
        phenomena often blithely described by that single rubric nationalism.
        Furthermore, as a member of the Protestant minority and steeped in the
        religious history of the island, where since the 17th
        century the great schism of Western Christendom has contended and
        co-existed, he had an intuitive feel for the complexities of the
        Yugoslav confluence of Islam, Orthodoxy and Catholicism. Of the
        Irish-Yugoslav parallel he himself remarked: “So even when these
        essays appear to be about Russia or Greece or Yugoslavia, they are
        really about Ireland.”[1]
        In his own personal lexicon, nationalism
        was a positive and inclusive concept, the love of one’s country and all
        its inhabitants — defined thus when speaking of an early Irish
        nationalist: “He would have said that a country belongs to the people
        who were born in it and intend to die there and who make its welfare
        their chief concern.”[2]
        It was racialism — the
        decay of nationalism into chauvinism and exclusiveness — that he saw
        as the grave and abiding danger. Perhaps no modern writer has enunciated
        this essential distinction with greater subtlety, and it speaks
        poignantly not only to the “Aeschylean tragedy” that has overtaken
        Bosnia, but also to the spirit that sustained the defense of Sarajevo,
        undoubtedly the Warsaw of our time.
         
        
         
        Butler’s
        oeuvre is the definitive confirmation that the seam of commonality
        between Ireland and the lands of the former Yugoslavia is a rich and
        important one. In all, twenty-six of his published essays, about a
        quarter of his work, deal in varying degrees with the former Yugoslavia,
        Greece, Bulgaria, and Romania. Of these, fourteen are on Yugoslavia and
        another six partly so. Moreover, seven of the essays devoted to
        Yugoslavia are among his greatest. In these, his overarching leitmotif
        is the corruption of Christianity by ecclesiastical and/or state
        authority.
        The
        central historical example is the genocide unleashed in Croatia by the
        policy of forcible conversion endorsed by the hierarchy of the Catholic
        Church and executed by the Ustashe regime of the Second World War; “the
        most bloodthirsty religio-racial crusade in history,” as he puts it,
        “far surpassing anything achieved by Cromwell or the Spanish
        Inquisitors.”[3]
        Cumulatively, the great Yugoslav septet is surely the most devastating
        critique of the Church’s collaboration with Balkan fascism ever to
        have appeared in English; and all the more powerful for the fact that he
        clearly loves Croatia and is writing in the spirit of Christianity,
        albeit a rather heterodox and secular Christianity that declines
        obeisance to any credo. It was, of course, his determination to speak
        the truth about the Croatian genocide that would lead to the Nuncio
        controversy in 1952[4];
        to the subsequent furore and opprobrium in Kilkenny and further afield;
        and to his eventual removal from the Kilkenny Archaeological Society,
        which he had revived eight years before.
        As
        Joseph Brodsky suggests in his Afterward to the posthumous fourth
        volume, Butler’s work on Central Europe and Yugoslavia may be his most
        important; for in it he delineates, with a virtuoso mix of wit and ire,
        “ the dirty grey” of a surpassingly violent century. It is a great
        pity he died just before the destruction of Yugoslavia and the sacking
        of Bosnia; not only did he speak the language, but he had lived in
        Yugoslavia for three years in the mid-thirties. He had crisscrossed all
        six constituent nations — Slovenia and Croatia in the north and west,
        Bosnia in the center, Serbia in the north and east, Montenegro and
        Macedonia in the southeast — and lived for longer spells in Zagreb,
        Belgrade, Dubrovnik, and further north on the Dalmatian coast. His
        Yugoslav work is extraordinary for the detail and rigor of his knowledge
        of the rich patchwork of cultural geography; it abounds in observations
        that become prescient and premonitory in retrospect. He was writing
        right up to his death; and had health permitted, it is difficult to
        imagine him not taking up
        Bosnia’s tragedy, and the new variations on his old themes presented
        by the crimes of Karadzic, Milosevic, and Tudjman.
        Yet,
        ironically, until very recently Butler was completely unknown in the
        region that figures so prominently in his life and work. The first and
        only of his essays to be translated into Bosnian, Croatian, or Serbian
        is one of his greatest, “Mr Pfeffer of Sarajevo,” an account of the
        trial of the assassins of Archduke Franz Ferdinand that is also a
        parable about the death of Balkan liberalism in the interwar period. I
        included it in the Irish issue I edited for the Sarajevo journal Zidne
        Novine.[5]
        This issue appeared a little over a year after the end of the Bosnian
        war, and was the result of a trip I made to the devastated capital in
        March 1996.
        The
        essay itself, published in 1956,
        ends with an Epilogue, whose three pages are, for me, among Butler’s
        most moving. In it, he makes his classic distinction between nationalism
        and racialism, then turns to the modern genealogy of what Churchill once
        termed “the disentanglement of populations,” but what we would now
        call “ethnic cleansing.”  “It was because nationalism lacked
        a philosophy,” he writes,
         
        that
        in the early twenties it began to decay and racialism took its place.
        The first sign of this degeneration came in 1923,
        when by the Treaty of Lausanne in exchange for Turks from Europe over a
        million Greeks were moved from the coast of Asia Minor, where they had
        lived for three thousand years. This ghastly crime was committed so
        efficiently under the auspices of the League of Nations that it won
        universal applause. ...The old view that men should enjoy equal rights
        in the land of their birth began to seem hopelessly out of date, and
        soon Hitler and Mussolini and Stalin were eliminating causes of friction
        by large and admirably organized population exchanges in the Tyrol and
        the Baltic States….[6]
         
        And a few paragraphs later
        Butler ends with this peroration:
         
        When
        we recall such gigantic endeavours, scientifically conducted, to sort
        out the old ragbag of nations of 1918
        into homogeneous states, how petty and parochial seem the dreams of the
        Sarajevo conspirators, and the poor old League of Nations with its
        condominiums and Free Cities and minority rights! And how more than dead
        are Davis and Herder and their romantic insistence on Homeland and
        Nationhood! One has to
        listen hard to catch the least echo of that extinct ideology. Yet
        here is one from the most improbably source of all, from Germany, which
        once led the world in the social science of Distentanglement. It comes
        from the Exiles’ Charter, an appeal for Heimatrecht
        published on behalf of the 7,500,000
        German
        refugees from the East.
        God
        placed men in their homes. To drive men out of their homes spells
        spiritual death. We have experienced this fate. Hence we feel called
        upon to demand that the right to one’s home be recognised as one of
        the basic rights given by God to man.[7]
         
        Later
        I was told that Butler’s essay had made a deep impression on its
        Bosnian readership. Sarajevo, of course, is now jammed with “the
        cleansed,” a city of refugees where countrywomen in pantaloons jostle
        against dispossessed Muslim professionals from Priejdor and Banja Luka.
        With this apt parable, Butler the literary revenant had leapt the
        language barrier and crossed in print into the Slav lands in which he
        had once sojourned in life.
        Nor
        is that quite the end of the story. There may be a sequel.
        Last
        October I returned to Sarajevo for the Bosnian launch of the anthology I
        had edited. On the plane from Vienna, flicking through the complimentary
        paper, I came across an astonishing item. I read that during his current
        Croatian visit, the Pope would beatify Archbishop Stepinac. Stepinac was
        the Catholic primate of Croatia during the Ustashe genocide.
        Conservatively, it is estimated that this huge annex to the Nazi
        holocaust saw the massacre of several hundreds of thousands of Serbs,
        Jews and Gypsies. The whole tale of Stepinac’s naïve collaboration
        is, of course, spelt out by Butler. At best, Stepinac had done little to
        vitiate the evil whose climate he had helped to cultivate. How had the
        Pope made such a grievous misreading of the Croatian crusade, that would
        one day find its Serb döppelganger from Vukovar to Srebrenica to Kosova?
        As
        it happened, I had in my bags all four volumes of Butler’s essays. I
        had brought them because I hoped to finalize discussions about an
        edition of his Balkan work. Somewhere over Slovenia’s Julian Alps, I
        suddenly realized that Butler’s work was still dynamite. What would
        happen if the edition appeared in Croatia, where Stepinac is still
        widely revered, even by the intelligentsia, as saintly and patriotic?
        Nowadays there are some uncomfortable religious parallels between ‘Fifties
        Ireland and post-Communist Croatia, to say nothing of the Croatian
        statelet within Bosnia, where Medjugore is. When this edition of Balkan
        essays appears, Butler may prove as challenging there as he once was
        here.
         
         
        
         
        Butler’s
        first visit to the Balkans was in 1928, to Greece. Making his way back to Ireland from a sojourn in Egypt and
        a stop-over in Cyprus, he toured the Peloponnese  with the Irish writer
        Monk Gibbon. Butler had had a classical education, first at
        Charterhouse, then at St John’s, Oxford, where his scholarship gave
        him the sobriquet Senior Classical Scholar. But he became disenchanted
        with classics at Oxford, and took a third in 1922. In
        “Return to Hellas” (1961),
        a celebration of the small-scale simplicity of Greek civilization as
        well as a caution against the gigantism of modern life, he describes the
        trip thus:
         
        When
        I was young, but not young enough, I walked through the Peloponnese 
        with
        a mule. It took, I think, thirteen hours from Andritsaena to the ferry
        across the Alphaeus. I had never enjoyed anything so much, but I felt
        very angry that my education had been back to front. Here was the jam at
        last after I had stuffed myself to repletion with dry bread. Had I known
        all this before, the fragrance of the myrtle and mule-droppings, the
        memory of roast sucking-pig and retsina, would have reconciled me to
        knowledge, which till then had flowed in the contrary direction to my
        curiosity. . . . Why did I never guess that in a meadow at Olympia,
        ringed with asphodel and narcissus, the Hermes of Praxiteles would shed
        like a scab of an old wound its frowsy kinship with a plaster cast in
        the Science Buildings at Charterhouse?[8]
         
        After
        matriculation, Butler in the 1920s and ‘30s was what we might term today a forerunner of the backpacking hippie.
        (Minus the long hair and shambolic clothing and intemperate habits; and
        grafted onto an ideal of the country scholar modeled on Graves and Prim,
        founders of the Kilkenny Archaeological Society.) Apart from his two
        years of gainful employment with the Irish County Libraries in the early
        twenties, when he worked in Ballymena, Coleraine, and Portstewart, he
        seems to have applied himself to having no career.
        In
        the mid-twenties, there was a term of teaching in London and a brief
        tutoring spell in Germany. Nineteen twenty-seven sees a few months of
        English-teaching in Egypt on the heels of travel in Italy and followed
        by the sojourn in the Peloponnese. In 1929
        he is married to Susan Margaret Guthrie, called Peggy, the sister of the
        director and playwright Tyrone Guthrie, and they spend their honeymoon
        in Riga, Latvia, having been denied entrance to the Soviet Union.[9]
        In the spring of 1932,
        Butler visits Moscow; a few months later, he returns to Russia with
        Peggy, and they take a boat trip down the Volga to Leningrad. His wife
        returns home, but Butler stays on for a few months of teaching English
        in Leningrad, at the beginning of the Red Terror; this stay is described
        in his masterpiece “Peter’s Window.” In-between these flits and
        sojourns, his main bases are in West London and at the Guthrie Big House
        at Annaghmakerrig, Co. Monaghan. There is some piecemeal tutoring in
        London and the upkeep of the garden and grounds of Annaghmakerrig. It is
        clear that the agenda he is working to, the star he is following, is
        anything but conventional.
        By
        the end of Auden’s “low, dishonest decade,” he is back in Austria
        after the Anschluss,
        working for the Quakers in order to expedite the escape of Jews in the
        grim Vienna of 1938-39.
        Only in 1941,
        when his father dies and he inherits Maidenhall in Bennettsbridge, does
        this period of wanderlust come to a close, and with it the peripatetic
        life of his twenties and thirties. Although punctuated by trips to
        Spain, Russia, China, Israel, and America, among other destinations, the
        rest of his life will be spent in Kilkenny.
        But
        first, of course, there were the three years in Yugoslavia, from autumn 1934
        to summer 1937.
        They are the most important of all his travels, and yet this chapter of
        his life remains quite blank. Yugoslavia, he would later write, “is
        the foreign country I know best” (his context suggests that the
        statement includes England).[10]
        Beyond the truism that everything in life is decisive, his time in the
        Slav Balkans has a seminal place in his writing and his life. It
        results, I think, in his greatest work and tinges with a bifocal
        perspective his whole intellectual approach to Ireland. It would lead
        two decades hence to the unpleasantness of the Nuncio incident.
        But
        Butler and his wife are gone, and with them, a full and vivid account of
        their time in Yugoslavia. As with the work, so with the life; once again
        Butler seems a step or two ahead of us, and those who might have wanted
        to draw more out of them have been wrong-footed by death. Whereas his
        literary reputation is no longer in danger of vanishing into the Lethe
        of oblivion, much of the bare outline of his life in those years has.
        (When I think of my own time as a student in Provence, between school
        and university, I realize on what a slim thread the seeming solidity of
        memory hangs. Without me, or the single Swedish friend of that period,
        almost nothing of my life there could be reconstructed.)
        I
        am afraid such a loss is now partly the case with Butler’s time in the
        Balkans. There are some letters and papers, and snippets of recollection
        by others. Mainly, there is the Balkan work. Even here, however, firm
        autobiography is rather thin, as it is in most of his work, with the
        exception of those pieces whose intention is purely personal. Yet,
        somehow, the overall effect of the Balkan writing is deeply
        autobiographical, in a way that is less the case with much of the rest
        of his work. What it lacks in external incident it makes up for with a
        rich narrative of ideas and experience, through which his time in
        Yugoslavia vividly gusts. There is almost no discussion of literature
        and letters, as exists in so much of his corpus; and the tremendous
        focus is on the interplay between the individual, cultural background
        and contemporary history. This distilled intellectual narrative is the
        special autobiographical brandy to be tapped from the seemingly
        impersonal cask of his writing on the Balkans.
        Sometime
        in 1934,
        Butler obtained a travelling scholarship for Yugoslavia from the School
        of Slavonic Studies in London; it was this that helped fund the three
        years. Or was it simply a case of new opportunity for travel presenting
        itself? It would seem he had not passed through the country previously,
        though he had skirted it in Austria. Very likely, his interest in Russia
        had something to do with it. This interest had been aroused by a distant
        cousin, Willie de Burgh, a philosopher at Reading University, with whom
        he stayed just after Charterhouse, when events in Russia were
        reverberating through the zeitgeist. A gifted linguist, Butler took up
        Russian sometime in the twenties; by the end of the decade he was fluent
        enough to begin translating Leonid Leonov’s bulky novel, THE
        THIEF, and
        Chekhov’s play The Cherry Orchard.
        They were published, respectively, in 1931
        and 1934;
        and the play was produced that same year by his brother-in-law, Tyrone
        Guthrie, at the Old Vic. A half-century later, Joseph Brodsky would
        judge it the best translation of that play ever to appear in English.
        Note
        the telling debut: Butler is a writer who begins with the East, not with
        Ireland. This is often overlooked in the effort to shoehorn him into one
        of the fashionable Irish literary agendas; for instance, that of “the
        Protestant imagination.” But such a categorical imperative can get
        woolly once outside Irish airspace, as Butler was so often in the
        interwar period. In fact, Butler is one of a distinguished line of Irish
        writers – such as Shaw, Joyce, Beckett, Aidan Higgins, Harry Clifton
        – whose sense of Irishness has been shaped by long periods of foreign
        residence, and so inflected by a cosmopolitanism that eludes, in part,
        the insular categories. Incidentally, Joyce lived in Trieste, then a
        part of Austria-Hungary, when it was as much a Slav city as an Italian
        one; and he often uses bits of Italo-Slovene dialect in his letters. In
        a like vein, Brodsky suggests, “Butler was interested in this
        border-line zone, with its fusion of Latin and Slavic cultures,
        presumably because he sense in their interplay the future of European
        civilisation.”[11]
        “Serbo-Croat”
        is closely related to Russian; and one is attracted to the thought that,
        with his interest in both Greece and Russia, the South Slav lands were a
        natural choice. From Istria to Kotor, the long karst
        littoral of Croatia and Montenegro, with its thousand-plus islands, is
        where the Slav world meets the warm oceans. Moreover, then as now, the
        field of Slavonic studies is a small one, and through some such contact
        he may have come across the travelling scholarship.
        Equally,
        it may have been from a Yugoslav friend, or friends, that Butler gleaned
        further curiosity about the region, after some initial contact with
        Serbs and Croats at Oxford. There are several candidates, but the most
        likely is Dr. Milan 
urcin.[12]
        He crops up in several essays and was the source of Butler’s account
        of Mr. Pfeffer, the judge at the trial of the Sarajevo assassins. In the
        introduction to ESCAPE
        FROM THE ANTHILL,
        Butler writes:
         
        Three
        years after I returned from Russia I went to teach in Zagreb in the
        Anglo-American-Yugoslav Society. It had been founded by my friend, Dr
        Milan Churchin, the editor of Nova
        Europa, the leading liberal journal of Central Europe, and by
        Dr Georgievic, the Orthodox Bishop of Dalmatia. I also had a small
        scholarship from the School of Slavonic Studies in London.[13]
         
        He
        does not quite say that 
urcin
        was a friend before his arrival. However, in a 1946 essay, “Two Faces of Postwar Yugoslavia,” he makes this aside
        about the famous Dalmatian sculptor Mestrovi
:
        “Mestrovitch was at that time in America but his house was being
        looked after by an old friend of mine, Dr Milan Churchin. With the
        problems of Serbia and Croatia in mind, he had visited Ulster.”[14]
        The
        last remark suggests a further possible source of early interest in
        Yugoslavia. Had Butler got attuned to the depth of Irish-Balkan parallel
        through personal contact? It seems a reasonable supposition.
        Butler
        arrived in Zagreb on 9
        October 1934,
        having traveled by way of Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade. Zagreb seems to
        have been his main base during the three years. he was accompanied by
        his wife, and the unpublished correspondence suggests regular addresses
        in both Zagreb and Belgrade; it would appear they had two flats
        permanently at their disposal. Several Zagreb friends with whom Butler
        would later stay in touch appear in the correspondence; one was their
        mentor Dr 
urcin.
        But the correspondence also suggests that they spent considerable
        periods in Dubrovnik and Ploce, a small Dalmatian town at the mouth of
        the Neretva River, surrounded by strip-fields and a moonscape of low
        Adriatic sierra. At some point Peggy returned to Ireland to give birth
        to their only child, Julia; and when she and the child returned, they
        all stayed in Belgrade, where they had a number of friends in the
        English-speaking legations. At least one full winter was spent in a
        former monastery in Dubrovnik overlooking the sea, not far from the
        walled citadel of fountains and palaces, where Julia would play. Another
        letterhead tells us he stayed for a while in Pale, near Sarajevo, from
        where Karadzic would one day direct the siege of the Bosnian capital.
        The
        most fascinating glimpse the correspondence gives us is of their stay in
        Ploce, sometime in 1936
        or 1937.
        It was here, it would seem, that Butler first saw at close quarters the
        shadow of Hitler; there are many allusions to Jewish refugee friends or
        acquaintances staying in the area. An earlier Belgrade letter reads: “Gertrude
        has now discovered her name is Stern and that she has an Aryan nose and
        is dreadfully worried about this, and I’m afraid won’t last.” 
        Back in Dubrovnik he runs into Rebecca West and husband, and tosses off
        this classic:  “They were motoring via Mostar and Sarajevo to
        Belgrade and so they took me out of Orasac and had some wine with me on
        the way. It was a fearful day, pouring rain, so they must have had a
        disappointing drive. She, like so many others, is writing a book about
        Jugoslavia or rather she says ‘Me in Jugoslavia’.”[15]
        In fact, disguised as an Englishman, Butler appears in this novel, BLACK
        LAMB, GREY FALCON,
        now a bible for Balkan no-nothings.
         
         
        The
        adjective in “travelling scholarship” turns out to be a significant
        clue to Butler’s time in the country. True to proto-Beat form, he
        appears to have been on the road for a good deal of the three years.
        This can be surmised from his discussion, in “The Barriers” (1941),
        of the vitality of small provincial clubs and readings rooms, but he
        confirms his ingenious troubadour procedure in an unpublished (1949)
        article for Peace News:
         
        When
        I was in Yugoslavia over a dozen years ago I had a travelling
        scholarship which enabled me to go round the country. In the days before
        the Iron Curtain to be foreign was, at the start, an asset, and when I
        arrived in some town of Bosnia or Macedonia I was made to feel welcome.
        There was usually a little club presided over by someone who had
        travelled abroad, and I was entertained….[16]
         
        No
        wonder he knew the country well.
        Two
        essays treat highlights of his time there. In the spring of 1937
        he traveled from Belgrade to Montenegro to witness the elaborate ritual
        of the izmirenje, or
        reconciliation ceremony, by which blood feuds were traditionally settled
        in the patriarchal peasant societies of the South Balkans. The
        experience is recounted in “The Last Izmirenje”
        (1947),
        a parable about an order of justice that took forgiveness instead of
        punishment as the true atonement for crime. And in his very early essay
        “In Dalmatia” (1937),
        a distillation of his travels through the archipelago and along the
        littoral, something of the emotional enchantment of those years is set
        in amber. It has the fresh-minted feeling of recent experience and
        conveys the delight and exuberance that must have accompanied him on his
        wanderings. It gives us a peaceful background to the somber meditations
        on what would later transpire “in the plains of Slavonia and the wild
        mountains of Bosnia.”[17]
        All
        this puts in the round Butler’s one autobiographical overview of the
        Balkan years, given in his Introduction to the first volume. Here is
        most of it:
         
        The
        day we arrived in Zagreb, 9 October 1934,
        news had just come that King Alexander, a Serb, had, with Bathou the
        French Foreign Minister, been assassinated in Marseilles by agents of
        the Croat separatist leader, Pavelitch. Zagreb was plunged in
        well-organized mourning with portraits of the king surrounded by black
        crape in the shop windows and black bows on the funnels of the railway
        engines. Two days later the king’s body arrived from Split, where it
        had been shipped from Marseilles, on its way to Belgrade. It lay for a
        couple of hours, surrounded by pot-plants, in the first-class waiting
        room at the station, where it was visited by mile-long processions. One
        of those who prayed beside the royal coffin was Archbishop Bauer,
        accompanied by his Auxiliary Monsignor Stepinac.
        During
        our time in Yugoslavia the shadow of the assassination hung over the
        whole country. Hitler had come to power in Germany and Jewish refugees
        were flocking to the Dalmatian coast. In Italy and Hungary, Pavelitch
        and his helper, Artukovitch, were training the army of Croat rebels who
        were, in 1941, to sweep into Yugoslavia with the Nazis and proclaim the Independent
        State of Croatia.
        And
        yet my recollections are of peace and beauty. There was almost no
        traffic in Yelachitch Trg, the central square. Fat amethyst pigeons
        strutted through the market stalls looking for pickings and panicking
        when the church bells rang. The scent of mimosa and wood-smoke, holy
        candles and freshly tanned leather drowned the faint whiff of petrol. On
        Sunday, we walked up Slijeme Mountain, where wild cyclamen and hellebore
        grew through beech woods. In our room I rooted oleander cuttings in
        bottles between the double windows. And when my pupils were on holiday I
        wrote down the story of Mr Pfeffer.
        Zagreb,
        in the thirties, was a very cultivated little town; it had an opera
        house and theatres, and there were still remnants of an Austrianized
        aristocracy in the leafy suburbs. Dalmatia was Italianate and Belgrade
        was still largely Turkish in character. When one went south and
        penetrated Montenegro, one seemed to pass from our cruel, complicated
        century to an earlier one, just as cruel, where each man was responsible
        to his neighbours for his crimes and where organised twentieth century
        barbarity had not yet emerged. . . .[18]
         
        Turning
        to the period after his departure, he goes on:
         
        The
        war came and Yugoslavia was carved up by Germany and her allies.
        Croatia, which had not resisted the Nazis, was rewarded with her
        Independent State under the rule of Pavelitch, King Alexander’s
        convicted murderer.
        Then
        in Zagreb an Aeschylean tragedy was enacted. The same young priest who
        had stood beside the coffin of his murdered king, reappeared before his
        countrymen as Archbishop at the right hand of his king’s assassin,
        helpless in the face of Pavelitch’s resolve to exterminate the
        Orthodox by expulsion, massacre or forced conversion. Unhappy but icily
        correct, Stepinac considered himself to be the servant of a power that
        is higher than the king or his murderer, and one that has rules for
        every occasion. His conscience was clear.[19]
         
        But
        Butler’s conscience was
        unsettled. Sensing the scale of the cataclysm that had befallen Croatia,
        he returned to Zagreb in June 1947
        for part of the summer. He saw some old friends, but also headed to the
        Central Library. He picks up the thread: what he found made “the heart
        stand still”[20]:
         
        When
        I was in Zagreb I spent several days in the public library looking up
        the old files of the newspapers that were issued in the occupation
        period, particularly the Church papers. I wanted to see what resistance,
        if any, was made by organised Christianity to the ruthless militarism of
        Pavelitch, the Croat national leader, and his German and Italian
        patrons; I am afraid the results were disheartening. I did not expect to
        find outspoken criticism or condemnation in the Church papers because,
        if it had been published, the papers would certainly have been
        suppressed. But I was wholly unprepared for the gush of hysterical
        adulation which was poured forth by almost all the leading clergy upon
        Pavelitch, who was probably the vilest of all war criminals. He was
        their saviour against Bolshevism, their champion against the Eastern
        barbarian and heretic, the Serb; he was restorer of their nation and the
        Christian faith, a veritable hero of olden time. As I believe that the
        Christian idiom is still the best in which peace and goodwill can be
        preached, I found this profoundly disturbing….[21]
         
        Recollections
        of “the moment in the library” appear in seven of his essays, and
        the research done there permeates several others. It is as central to
        his work as the Nuncio controversy would be to his life. One might say
        it was the ethical equivalent of Proust’s moment before the madeleine.
        Each time he returns to it, it is with some new mood or poignant twist.
        It
        is for another occasion to rehearse Butler’s J’accuse,
        his meticulous and psychologically subtle portrait of Stepinac. But its
        gist can be gathered from the first and the last appearance of the theme
        in his writing. During the same 1946
        visit, Butler met, in Zagreb, Father Chok, an Orthodox priest who during
        the war ministered in “the wild district of Lika,” near the Bosnian
        border, where there were large communities of Catholic and Orthodox. The
        horror of the priest’s tale is insinuated with Swiftian
        understatement:
         
        In
        the Lika the parishes are sometimes Orthodox, sometimes Catholic, and
        Father Chok found himself between two large Catholic communities whose
        priests were Father Mober and Father Mimica. Fortunately for him Father
        Mimica, the nearer of his two neighbors, was friendly and kind, while
        Father Mober, who was not, was busy with the affairs of another Orthodox
        parish, Shtikada. One day, after the government had announced its
        programme for the conversion of the Orthodox in Croatia, Father Mober
        arrived by car in Shtikada and ordered the villagers to assemble at the
        marsh where the ceremony of conversion would take place. He explained
        that in this way they would escape being killed. (emphasis added)[22]
         
        Assembled
        in the unusual venue of a marsh, by a priest under the jurisdiction of
        Stepinac, a massacre of three hundred fifty souls occurs. Thirty-five
        years later, Butler bears witness again:
         
        The
        newspapers of the time, secular and ecclesiastical, are still to be seen
        in the Municipal Library, but this huge pile of documents, the Rosetta
        Stone of Christian corruption, has not yet been effectively deciphered….
        In an authoritarian community, when there is hypocrisy and connivance at
        the centre, the ripples from them spread outwards to the remote
        circumference: ‘In vain do they worship me, teaching as their
        doctrines the precepts of men.[23]
         
        After
        Zagreb, Butler traveled to Belgrade and Split to see friends. Some of
        the people he met, as well as the postwar atmosphere of the three
        cities, are recounted in “Some Encounters: Zagreb 1947,” “The Russian Consul,” and “Two Faces of Postwar Yugoslavia:
        Belgrade and Split.”
        Butler’s
        penultimate visit to Yugoslavia was in 1950, with a delegation from the National Peace Council in Britain.[24]
        True to form, the one essay to emerge from this trip, “A Visit to
        Lepoglava” (1951),
        opens with Butler at the gates of the prison where Stepinac is held.
        Stepinac had been found guilty of collaboration, and the Vatican was
        asked to withdraw him to Rome; when the Pope refused, he was jailed.
        When Butler and his Quaker companions are brought in to Stepinac, they
        find the cell a good one, with light, a shelf of books, cupboard and
        iron bedstead, and a small chapel in the adjacent room. Respectfully but
        directly, Butler probes him about his role in the conversion campaign.
        Stepinac proffers no qualms but also no complaints; he is tight-lipped,
        evasive, sentimental. Like Chekhov’s visit to Sakhalin, or something
        out of E. M.
        Forster, it
        seems to me a quintessential moment in the literature of the
        Twentieth-century ethical imagination. “Surely,” Butler would later
        write with consummate understatement, “it must be one of the hardest
        blows that fate has dealt him that both Pavelitch and Sharitch speak
        well of him.”[25]
        The
        Yugoslav swan song was a package holiday Butler and his wife took to
        Dalmatia in 1980.
        It proved an unpleasant affair, with sweltering heat and the cavernous
        Soviet-style hotels that had begun dotting the rocky promontories.
        Butler developed a leg ulcer, and they both returned exhausted.
         
        
         
        Are
        there any general conclusions about the Balkan Butler to be drawn from
        the foregoing?
        The
        first is surely that the Balkan writings are central, not, as is
        sometimes assumed, a Ruritanian branch-line to the basic Irish track.
        Butler always rejected the Hiberno-centric note; he was not (to
        paraphrase a Serb friend on certain Serbs) more Irish than was
        necessary. If anything, the two tracks, Ireland and Yugoslavia, are
        parallel, with occasional crossovers and junctions. This Balkan
        centrality becomes clear when one studies the chronology of the
        writings. It may come as a surprise, but up to and including 1948, he had written eleven [essays] on the Balkans (and he may have been
        working on others), three on Russia, two on the small nations of Europe,
        and one each on a German and an English topic.[26]
        Thereafter, the Irish topics multiply, but even at mid-century, the
        tally is eighteen on the Balkans and Eastern Europe and five on Ireland.
        I repeat: Butler the writer begins in Eastern and Central Europe.
        The
        second point flows from the first. The Croatian genocide is at the heart
        of the corpus; it is not so much a limb as a backbone. For sound
        editorial reasons, the arrangement of the writings in the four Lilliput
        volumes did not, and could not, take into account chronology. To read
        the Balkan essays in chronological order, however, is to became aware of
        the frugal skill with which he broaches and elaborates the matter of the
        genocide. Themes are introduced and outlined; later they are embellished
        and extended. He begins by writing of his Balkan time and the wartime
        genocide; then the Nuncio controversy intervenes; then he interlaces
        both perspectives; what emerges is something more universal,
        transcending the particulars of either country.
        The
        difficulty is that, scattered through the four volumes, the pattern of
        the Balkan work, second nature to the author, is lost on the reader not
        intent on unraveling it. Even when laid out in chronological order, the
        titles have an occasional and even strange air to the English ear, and
        so do not quite do justice to the crafted and supple orchestration that
        they embody. After all, did he not consider the events in Croatia “the
        most bloodthirsty religio-racial crusade in history”? How could a
        writer like Butler, with his ethical and historical and cultural cast of
        mind, with an intimate knowledge of the country and that defining moment
        in the Zagreb Municipal Library, give the theme short shrift? Indeed,
        how could he not make it central?
        The
        last point puts the first two in context. It is that Butler first
        envisaged and then understood himself not merely as an Irish
        intellectual, but, equally, an intellectual of the larger cultural
        pattern to which Ireland belongs and into which it is subsumed: namely,
        the small nations of Europe, the so-called Succession States that
        emerged from the imperial aftermath of the First World War. This he
        makes clear in two related works of early genius, “The Barriers” (1941)
        and “The Two Languages” (1943),
        when at the height of the Hitleran darkness engulfing all those states
        save Ireland, he reflects on the cohesiveness of small communities and
        the role of the writer in the life of the nation. “It is a strange
        time,” he remarks,
         
        to
        maintain the theory that a distinctive culture cannot exist without
        cultural intercourse, but since the mainspring of our freedom was not
        political theory but the claim that Ireland possessed and could develop
        a unique culture of her own, it is reasonable to examine this claim. . .
        . A nation cannot be created negatively by elimination or strategic
        retreats into the past. It must crystallize round the contemporary
        genius that interprets it. To acquire this detachment, they will need to
        have access to other forms of society, so that they can see their own
        lives objectively and in totality from the threshold.[27]
         
        Through
        luck or design or both, Yugoslavia served as the twin, the parallel, the
        counterpoint, the contrasting other par excellence. There is this
        telling biographical passage in the Introduction to ESCAPE
        FROM THE ANTHILL:
         
        Yugoslavia
        had been born in 1918
        after the defeat of Austria-Hungary and the rise of the Succession
        States. For the Southern Slavs it was the fulfilment of an ancient dream
        of harmony between four neighbouring and kindred peoples. I was at
        Oxford then and there was springtime in the air. There were Serbs,
        Croats and Czechs, there were Irish too, all rejoicing in their
        new-found freedom. We all had minority problems and I was surprised that
        Ireland, least scarred by war, did not identify herself with the other
        small new states more warmly, share experiences and take the lead for
        which she was qualified.[28]
         
        Butler
        never lost the sense of that youthful springtime, when the ideals of the
        Easter Rising were only a spiritual stone’s throw away from those of
        the Sarajevo conspirators.
        Butler
        is a major Balkan writer. In historical terms, his prose is more
        insightful, sounder and more prescient, than the Balkan novels of Evelyn
        Waugh or Rebecca West. I do not, however, simply mean that he has
        produced major writing on the Balkans; that much has been obvious for
        some time. I mean, actually, that he is a writer whose Balkan work, in
        the cosmopolitan sense, also belongs, or ought to belong, to the lands
        that so intrigued him. In this, he is again one of literature’s rare
        birds. Like Bruce Chatwin with Australia, or Alexis de Toqueville with
        America, or Lord Byron with Greece, he will sooner or later penetrate
        the barriers of distance and language and establish a niche in the
        national life that once hosted him. What that happens, it will be a
        long-overdue homecoming.
         
         
         
         
        ©Chris
        Agee. This essay appeared in part in Graph
        (Dublin) 3.3, Summer 1999.
         
        Contributors
         
         
       
       
      
         Hubert
        Butler: Balkan Essays, 1937-1990:
        Escape from the Anthill 1985
        In
        Dalmatia 1937*
        The
        Barriers 1941
        The
        Two Languages 1943*
        Some
        Encounters: Zagreb 1946 1946*
        The
        Russian Consul 1947*
        Father
        Chok and Compulsory Conversion 1947*
        Report
        on Yugoslavia 1947*
        Yugoslav
        Papers: The Church and its Opponents 1947*
        Yugoslavia:
        The Cultural Background 1947*
        The
        Last Ismirenje 1947
        Maria
        Pasquinelli and the Dissolution of the Ego 1947
        Two
        Faces of Postwar Yugoslavia: Belgrade and Split 1948*
        Ireland
        and Croatia 1948*
        James
        Bourchier: An Irishman In Bulgaria 1948*
        Memorandum
        on the Struggle Between Christianity and Communism 1949*
        Nazor,
        Oroschatz and the Von Berks 1949*
        The
        Invader Wore Slippers 1950
        A
        Visit to Lepoglava 1951
        The
        Sub-Prefect Should Have Held His Tongue 1956
        Mr
        Pfeffer of Sarajevo 1956
        Return
        to Hellas 1961
        The
        Final Solution 1962
        Fiume,
        Sushak and the Nugents 1978*
        The
        Artukovitch File 1970-1985
        A
        Three-Day Nation 1990*
        Afterword
        by Joseph Brodsky
        *Unpublished
        until his essays were collected by The Lilliput Press, 1985-96.
         
        Books
        by Hubert Butler:
        _________,
        TEN THOUSAND SAINTS: A STUDY IN IRISH AND EUROPEAN ORIGINS.
        Kilkenny, Ir.:
        Wellbrook
        Press, 1972
        _________,
        ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL.
        Dublin: The Lilliput Press, 1985
        _________,
        THE CHILDREN OF DRANCY. Dublin:
        The Lilliput Press, 1988
        _________,
        GRANDMOTHER AND WOLFE TONE.
        Dublin: The Lilliput Press, 1990
        _________,
        THE SUB-PREFECT SHOULD HAVE HELD HIS TONGUE, AND OTHER ESSAYS.
        London:
        Viking Press, 1990
        _________,
        L’ENVAHISSEUR EST VENU EN PANTOUFLES. 
        tr. Phillipe Blanchard.
        Pref.
        Joesph Brodsky. Paris Anatolia Editions, 1994
        _________,
        IN THE LAND OF NOD. Dublin:
        The Lilliput Press, 1996
        _________,
        INDEPENDENT SPIRIT. New
        York: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1996
        Anton
        Chekhov, The Cherry Orchard.
        Tr. Hubert Butler. Intro.
        Tyrone Guthrie. London:
        H.F.W.
        Dane & Sons Ltd; Boston.: Baker’s Plays
        Leonid
        Leonov, THE
        THIEF. Tr.
        Hubert Butler. London: Martin Warburg, 1931. New York: Vintage, 1960
         
        Relevant
        books:
        Paul
        Blanshard, THE
        IRISH AND CATHOLIC POWER. An American Interpretation.
        Foreword,
        H.
        Montgomery Hyde. London: Derek Verschoyle, 1954
        Anthony
        Henry O’Brian, Count of Thomond, ARCHBISHOP
        STEPINAC: THE MAN AND HIS CASE.
        Westminster:
        The Newman Bookshop, 1947
        Richard
        Pattee, THE
        CASE OF CARDINAL ALOYSIUS STEPINAC. Milwaukee: Bruce
        Publishing, 1953
        Marco
        Aurelio Rivelli, L’ARCIVESCOVO
        DEL GENOCIDIO: Monsignor Stepinac, il Vaticano, e la
        dittatura
        ustascia in Croazia, 1941-1945. Milan: Kaos Edizioni, 1998.
        Andrée
        Sheehy Skeffington, SKEFF:
        THE LIFE OF OWEN SHEEHY SKEFFINGTON 1909-1970. Dublin:
        The
        Lilliput Press, 1991
        Sudjic,
        Milivoj J. YUGOSLAVIA
        IN ARMS. (“Europe under the Nazis” series) London:
        Lindsay
        Drummond,
        Ltd., 1942
        Various,
        MARTYRDOM OF
        THE SERBS (Persecutions of the Serbian Orthodox Church and
        Massacre
        of the Serbian People) (Documents and reports of the United Nations and
        of
        eyewitnesses) The Serbian Eastern Orthodox Diocese for The United States
        of
        American
        and Canada, 1943
         
        Also:
        Hubert Butler, “The Sub-Prefect Should Have
        Held His Tongue,” this issue
        Chris Agee, “The Stepinac
        File,” this issue
        Hubert Butler, “The
        Artukovitch File” Archipelago, Vol. 1, No. 2
        Richard Jones, “An
        Appreciation of Hubert Butler,” Archipelago, Vol. 1, No. 2
        A selection of papers read at the Centenary
        of Hubert Butler (October 20-22, 2000), Kilkenny 
        The Bosnian
        Institute, London, directed by Quintin
        Hoare
        The
        Clero-Fascist Studies Project: Christianty, Fascism and Genocide in the
        20th Century 
        Archbishop
        Stepinac’s Reply at the Trial 
        “The
        Case of Archbishop Stepinac”
        Kaos
        Editions
        The
        Lilliput Press
         
         
         
        
        
          [1]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 2
         
        
        
        
          [4]
          Butler gives a full account of the Nuncio incident in “The
          Sub-Prefect Should Have Held His
          Tongue,”
          ESCAPE
          FROM THE ANTHILL, pp. 270-82. It took place at a meeting
          of the Foreign Affairs Association in Dublin, following a lecture on
          the Church in Tito’s Yugoslavia by the editor of the Catholic weekly
          The Standard, entitled
          “Yugoslavia – the Pattern of Prosecution.”  After the
          lecture, Butler attempted to raise the issue of Church collaboration
          with the Croatian genocide. He takes up the tale:
          I
          decided that at the end of his paper … I would try to show how
          variegated was the pattern of persecution in Yugoslavia, and how
          misleading our crude simplifications would be…. I got up, holding in
          my hands THE
          MARTYRDOM OF THE SERBS, a book published by the exiled
          Serbian Orthodox Church in Chicago, in case anything I said required
          authoritative corroboration. It had been given me by archpriest
          Nicolitch, the head of the Serbian Orthodox Church in England. But I
          had spoken only a few sentences when a stately figure rose from among
          the audience and walked out. It was the Papal Nuncio, of whose
          presence I had been unaware. The Chairman instantly closed the
          meeting, and there was an appalled silence, followed by a rush of
          reporters in my direction. They had understood nothing in the
          confusion. There was, consequently, some lively reporting, and two
          leading dailies quoted me as saying that the Orthodox Church, not the
          Communists, had initiated the persecution of the Catholics in
          Yugoslavia. In gigantic letters in the Sunday
          Express (Irish edition) I read: ‘Pope’s Envoy Walks
          Out. Government to Discuss Insult to Nuncio.’
          In
          the ultramontane Ireland of the time, “the Insult,” as it was
          dubbed in the press, proved a sensation, and Butler suffered a good
          deal of small-town persecution.
         
        
          [5]
          “Sad Kad Se Zito Talasa Pored Rusevina” (Now that the Rye Crop
          Waves Beside the Ruins), Irish Issue, Zidne
          Novine (December 1996, A4 format, 44 pages)
         
        
          [6]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 259
         
        
        
        
          [9]
          Butler’s earliest essay, “Riga Strand in 1930,” was written soon
          after this visit. It was published for
          the
          first time, 58 years later, in CHILDREN
          OF DRANCY.
         
        
          [10]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 8
         
        
          [11]
          IN THE LAND OF NOD,
          268
         
        
          [12]
          In Butler’s day it was customary to anglicize Slav names. In my
          text, however, I have kept the
          Slavic
          spellings.
         
        
          [13]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 8
         
        
          [14]
          GRANDMOTHER AND WOLFE
          TONE, p. 201
         
        
          [15]
          Butler Papers (unpublished correspondance)
         
        
          [16]
          Ibid. (in typescript)
         
        
          [17]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 340
         
        
        
        
        
          [21]
          IN THE LAND OF NOD, p
          106
         
        
          [22]
          GRANDMOTHER AND WOLFE
          TONE, p. 181
         
        
          [23]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 285 and p. 304
         
        
          [24]
          His involvement with the delegation may have been set in train by a
          1949 War Resisters League
          International
          Conference in Holland, where he delivered a paper on pacifism and the
          Churches, “Memorandum on the Struggle between Communism and
          Christianity,” which alludes briefly to Stepinac.
         
        
          [25]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 281
         
        
          [26]
          The three Irish essays are “New Geneva in Waterford” (1948), “Otway
          Cuffe” (1948), and and the
          1948
          parts of “Midland Perspectives” (1948-49). It is possible, of
          course, that several of the Irish essays published later were written
          earlier than this; but this would not affect the basic balance between
          European and Irish work up until 1949.
         
        
          [27]
          GRANDMOTHER AND WOLFE
          TONE, pp. 32-33
         
        
          [28]
          ESCAPE FROM THE ANTHILL,
          p. 8